Tumuñan Lodge - A stay in a Central Chilean Eco Wine Lodge
(Tour Report October 2013 - Updated November 2017)
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Imagine a valley less than 3 hours from Santiago with forests and rivers, where activities like overnight horse treks into the high Andes, fly fishing, jumping off a waterfall, relaxing in a hot tub under the stars or picnicking by a green rushing stream are the order of the day. Add to this a Lodge with warm and welcoming hosts who take care of every detail for you so that you can enjoy the beauty of nature… and you will have started to picture Tumuñan Lodge in the upper reaches of the Colchagua Valley. Located in the foothills of the Andes east of the Colchagua valley, the Lodge is owned and run by a young couple, Will and Carolina Evelyn. Just a few hours from Santiago, it is perfect for an instant adventure of a few days. They have shaped the Lodge over the past 6½ years into a wonderfully scenic part of the 6th Region. With just 4 rooms, you will feel very much at home in the Lodge, as if you were visiting friends in the country.
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Will and Carolina provide their guests with all the comforts of home in their Lodge, including excellent home made food and organic produce from their garden. Enjoying a glass of local wine and good conversation by the fireplace in their living room, or even a romantic soak in a hot tub under the stars, Tumuñan Lodge has an intimacy about it that makes it truly relaxing and really special. Guests can choose from a wide range of tailor made tours, such as horseback riding and/or camping in the mountains for one day or more; wine tours in local renowned vineyards in the Colchagua and Maule valleys; fly fishing; soaking in the lovely pool or hot tub; barbeque in the evening; and even heli-skiing for more adventurous clients. A particular favourite for us was the leisurely afternoon ride to a local pool with lovely falls, with a most refreshing swim in the cool pool below the falls.
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Arriving at Tumuñan Lodge, we could almost feel relaxation lingering in the air. We were first greeted by Bernard and Clarita, the friendly dogs of the Lodge, and Celedonio the Lodge’s hired man, and then Will appeared and welcomed us with a smile. Less than 15 minutes later, Will had us on horseback to a nearby waterfall, an easy ride about an hour away. He had prepared a picnic lunch for us, and the horses were all saddled and ready to go even before we arrived. The horses were beautiful, well trained, and pleasing not only to me (a passionate rider since I was young! ) but also to my husband, who is much less experienced. We came to a stop at one turn of the road and ventured a short way on foot to reach the waterfall. An amazing spot! From the top, we could see the water falling 10 meters down into a perfect pool of deep, clear water. We walked around and down until we were sitting in front of the waterfall to watch small trout swimming in the pool.
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Our picnic was packed with sandwiches, cool white wine, mineral water, nuts and oranges. We enjoyed the warm sun on our backs, and a pleasant lunch with the sounds of the waterfall, and a good conversation with Will about his wine growing exploits. We began to understand this region of Chile, the land, the mountains, and the possibilities for all kinds of adventurous explorations. In the meantime, the horses and Celedonio were waiting for us up the hill on the road. We started our descent on the horses, it being a very pleasant and not too strenuous ride, quite suitable for adults and children. Returning to the Lodge, we jumped into the hot tub that was already waiting for us. The warm water was soothing and perfect for a long soak after our ride. When we finally pulled ourselves away, we enjoyed a short rest then joined our hosts Will and his wife Carolina for dinner.
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Carolina is charming, calm, and an exceedingly good chef! She offered us a glass of wine, which I accepted gladly. A half hour later dinner was ready and our hosts offered to join us at the table to enjoy a wonderfully prepared menu for the evening. This included gravved laks cured by Will – simply delicious! Second course: homemade lasagna, which was superb. For desert, ice cream with chocolate sauce – how did they know my husband loved ice cream and I loved chocolate? All this was topped up with fun and spontaneous conversation. Overall the meal was excellent, a combination of delicious dishes and wine where you can see (and taste!) the care that Will and Carolyn give their guests. On other occasions, Will offers the option of the best of barbeques in a cosy ambiance.
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Breakfast was bacon & eggs, pan amasado, fresh brewed coffee, Tumuñan Lodge honey, fresh fruit, pure orange juice and yoghurt. What a feast! Today we contemplated a trip into the mountains, with the following night or two camping under clear skies with countless stars. Will is an expert guide, with the tours limited only by your interests and time. From excellent fly-fishing, to glaciers, everything beckons the adventurous guest. Tumuñan Lodge transforms camping into an enjoyable luxury. Tents are put up for you; air mattresses laid inside, and a savoury barbeque and crackling fire prepared. Stargazing is a special privilege you can enjoy when staying at the Lodge. Near the Lodge you can also visit the trail of the Dinosaurs; there are footprints here left by a sauropod, Iguanodonichus Frenki, 120 million years ago! In only one other place on earth is it possible to see such a sight! The Dinosaur Trail transports you back to a time when such enormous creatures strolled the land in search of fodder and refuge. A very special outing!
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In conclusion, Tumuñan Lodge is the ideal base for exploring the Andes, only 2 ½ hours away from Santiago. The rooms are comfortable and warm, with details such as heaters in every room, thick rugs, soap and shampoo dispensers, and ample spaces to hang or fold your clothes. The best part of the Lodge, however, is certainly the two or three-day horseback camping adventures in the mountains in which the Lodge specializes. Everything is arranged for you and your comfort, and this is what makes Tumuñan Lodge such a special place to visit on a long weekend. Leaving on a Friday afternoon and coming back on Sunday evening leaves you plenty of time to unwind and relax at this perfect spot in the 6th region, soak in a hot tub, camp in the Andes, swim in a waterfall, and return home refreshed and amazed at this hidden region so close to Santiago!
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Rates (2018 Season):
- From US$ 135/room/night B&B
- 1/2 day Riding/Fishing from US$ 80/pers; Full day US$ 150/pers
- Full Day Wine Tour & Tasting US$ 150/pers
- Hot-tub US$ 15/hour