Sacha Lodge in Ecuador's Amazonia (via Quito and Baños)
​(Tour Report April /May 2012)

Ecuador Megadiversity - Amazonia
Ecuador is universally recognized as being one of the World's greatest "megadiverse" destinations, with the stunning Galapagos and 9 other eco-systems being on offer, yet amazingly little more than 1.5 million tourists visit it annually*!   This makes it even more of a great place to visit if "over-tourism" is an issue you wish to avoid!  The vast majority of visitors will enter via Quito, a delightful capital at 2,850m AMSL, just some 25kms south of the Equator line.  One of the first cities in the world to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, there are many top attractions to enjoy.  These include its classical colonial centre with seat of government in the Carondelet Palace, the magnificent Metropolitan Cathedral, and Gothic Basilica de Voto Nacional inspired by Bourges Cathedral in France.  Also, many fine museums and art galleries.  Our favourite museum was the Banco de Ecuador Museum, with its FABULOUS display of pre-Inca pottery and Inca Gold, now housed in the new National Museum of Ecuador next to Parque El Ejido in Belen.  
(* World Bank Tourism Barometer 2017)
Amazonia Access:   However, most visitors will either be heading for the Galapagos, or Amazonia!  The two most well known national parks in Ecuador's Amazonia are Yasuni on the Rio Napo, and Cuyabeno, both in the far NE of Ecuador, where you will rarely see others groups than your own.  These are reached most routinely by regular TAME flights from Quito to Lago Agrio (Neuva Loza) for Cuyabeno, or El Coca (Francisco de Orellano) for Yasuni/Rio Napo.  Flights take from 40 - 25 minutes respectively with TAME, in modern 50-seat twin turbo-prop ATR 42s, costing between US$ 2-300/person/return.  Thereafter, guests are transported by minibus to the riverside, where they are then transferred onto a fast motorized water-taxi for the 2 hours ride down to the lodges.  A great ALTERNATIVE means of access from Quito, whilst public bus also exists (less recommended), is by private road transfer routing via Papallacta and San Rafael.  At Papallacta, overlooked by the impressive snow-capped Antisana volcano, one can enjoy clean and invigorating hot thermal baths, and at San Rafael enjoy its amazing waterfall hidden in a luscious green glen.  Stay overnight en route, and you can also visit one of the pristine cloud forests here, such as Guango, to observe toucan, guans, hummingbirds, tanagers, and maybe even some rare glass frogs, so called as one can peer through their transparent skin to see their hearts beating inside!  Baños de Agua Santa is a similarly popular thermal pool site that can be visited en route to the Amazon from Cuenca.  
What to see/When to go?   Amazonia is a year-round destination, with lots to see at any time.  The drier season is from October to February, when the mosquitoes are less and the tracks are more accessible, when quarry and hunter converge on the fewer pools to drink.  Conversely, during the rainy season, access by boat can mean quiet and stealthy approach to wildlife with many grazing spots reduced by the waters, which concentrates hunters into more predictable locations for better observation.  In some cases, you may even be up to 9 metres closer to the overhead canopy to spot canopy dwellers.  HOW LONG is simply dictated by your budget!  An OUTSTANDING option, especially along Ecuador's NAPO River, is to consider one of the small number of comfortable riverboats that offer tours in the Amazon, most operating out of El Coca.  These may not be preferable for families travelling with young children. 
​For MORE on Ecuador's Amazon Cruises click HERE!  
​En route to Sacha Lodge:   Our flight from Quito was prompt and efficient, and we were met at Lago Agrio (Coca was closed for airport maintenance) on time and in a welcoming manner with cold drinks.  The half-hour run in an airconditioned minibus to the river port on the Rio Napo was scenic and comfortable, as was the exhilarating boat ride down the Napo to our lodge.  The guide, who would stay with us throughout our time at Sacha Lodge, was Luis, being fun and extremely knowledgeable.  Like most of the park's employees, these are local Huaorani people beginning to benefit from global tourism, and we felt happy to know that our dollars  were going to support the local Indian community.  A good GREEN feeling! ​
​The Sacha Lodge Experience:  Our river taxi had suddenly veered towards the bank, after some two hours heading down the slow flowing, muddy brown waters of the Napo.  We were invited to disembark and followed guides into the seemingly impenetrable jungle, whilst other assistants unloaded our baggage.  After a few minutes walk, we came upon a "port" with several wooden dug-out canoes, each with a local rower already onboard.  We were encouraged to climb aboard, carefully, and assist with the propelling of these ungainly craft into the nearby "black-water" lake.  We suddenly realised we had arrived at our destination, Sacha Lodge!  The Lodge itself sat majestically on the far bank of the lake, a mixture of tree-house and jungle lodge.  It looked extremely inviting.  We landed soon and were welcomed with a refreshing aperitif and safety brief.
​
The Sacha Lodge Experience - Highlights:  Our time at Sacha passed in a blur of enjoyment.  After dinner on night 1 we encountered a "local resident" on our balcony, a 9-inch (30cm) bird spider just waiting for its dinner, but perfectly harmless to us.  On the night treks our local guides were amazingly able to spot so many of the jungle's hidden residents, including amphibians, monkeys and moths.  Dawn offered similar delights, when we also visited the remarkable "canopy walk" and kapok tree lookout, to catch sights of red howler monkeys feeding and birds sitting high up in the forest roof.  On another day we visited a salt-lick to snap photos of thousands of busy parrots and other birds visiting the spot to harvest vital chemicals for their health.  
And on another afternoon we were invited to cool off in the
​"blackwater" lake.  Initially reticent until the guides dived in first, we followed, but were then aghast when fellow guests, not swimming but fishing, caught several piranhas!  LESSON - it is safe to swim in piranha infested waters as long as you have NO injuries/bleeding and the piranhas have NOT been subject to drought conditions!  That evening, we went out on the lake again to look for caiman, which the guides "spotted" by shining torch beams into likely locations.  When the torches lit up the caimans' red eyes, we could approach to within feet of these fearsome beasts.  Awesome!  And to think we had been swimming in the very same waters just earlier!
​Sacha Lodge History:   "Sacha" Lodge (being Quechua for "forest") was opened in April 1992 by Swiss adventurer and naturalist Arnold "Benny" Ammeter.  Having worked for many years in Chile, Bolivia and Peru, his love of nature and South America's wildlife eventually brought him to Ecuador's Amazonia where he opened his first tour lodge in 1985.  As civilisation encroached he looked for a new spot to build another lodge.  He found that special place on the banks of Lake Pilchicocha.   Since opening Sacha Lodge Benny has continued to purchase land around the lodge, now totalling more than 5,000 acres, to create a green area where animals are safe from hunting and other threats.  He also works with universities and America and England on animal research, and employs over 100 indigenous families, helping the local economy and bringing their jungle expertise to bear on the visitors' experience.  This is truly GREEN tourism, good for visitors and GREAT for the birds & beasts! 
​We can't wait to go back and urge others to visit SOON!​