Falklands Tour Report - Get Away from it ALL!
​(Tour Report December 2019)
​A vacation to the incredible Falkland Islands can be described as being a mix of touring the Galapagos and visiting Antarctica!  Where else can one observe so much wildlife, up so close and in such profusion, and encounter so many types of penguins (5!) and other Austral marine life only associated with the South Pole?!  And with less than 3,500 souls, tranquillity is assured!  But it offers more than that, with a rich history, a photographer's or naturalist's idyll, and a little corner of Olde England located so far from home shores!  And at a time when popular tourist destinations are shunning visitors due to over-tourism, the Falklands and the Islanders offer the warmest hospitality! 
Located in the South Atlantic some 300 miles (480 kms)​ east of Rio Gallegos in southern Argentina,  over 700 islands make up the Falklands Archipelago, with East and West Falklands being the principal islands.   The first recorded siting was made by English navigator, John Davis, in 1592 aboard his vessel "Desire", reflected in the Falklands moto "Desire is Right", with the ship shown on its Coat of Arms.  Sporadically settled by French, British, Spanish and Argentine communities over the years, Britain reasserted its rule in 1833.  The Spanish name Islas Malvinas actually stemmed from the French Iles Malouines, named after the French port of St Malo, where most of the early French settlers originated.  Whilst controversy exists over its status as a British Overseas Territory (BOT), this was tested as Argentine forces invaded in April 1982.  A UK Expeditionary Force retook the islands two months later.  Today, the principle of self-determination underlines the basis for its status.  99.8% of Islanders voted to retain their firm link with UK in a referendum in 2013.
Nature here is KING!  Whilst there is pure enjoyment to be had just relaxing in the clear, wide open spaces​, FAR from the hectic pressures and pace of city life in our own lands, here it's about enjoying the flora and fauna!  Even compared with the Galapagos, where strictly controlled guiding ensures the fauna is left unmolested, on the Falklands the animals are amazingly unafraid of any visitor.  Nesting sites are clearly marked to prevent entry by humans, but as visitors take their photographs and observe baby chicks feeding with their parents, other members of the colony will walk right past the onlookers, or even peck playfully at their feet.  Of course there are bigger species, the elephant seals being the iconic example, where visitors do NOT wish to stray too close!  Whilst diving is also possible here, the waters are very cold, and there are LARGE denizens of the deep that frequently visit, such as the orca, many types of whale, and sealions, amongst others.

When planning a wildlife visit to the Falklands, be aware that MOST wildlife hotspots lie on private land, where prior permission and even collection of an access key is necessary.  The excellent website of the Falkland Islands Tourist Board (https://www.falklandislands.com) provides many ideas and useful tips.  Another major issue is that often sites require off-road driving, NOT permitted in hire cars, and usually over terrain that requires serious skill and local knowledge! Hire a professional local guide.  Depicted on the map in red are the best nesting sites for the top fauna, those on West Falklands usually only being visited by cruise vessels.  ALL can be reached by FIGAS flights.  Of particular note is Sea Lion Island south of East Falklands, that is "off-limits" to large cruise vessels, and where in a two or three-night visit one can see orca, elephant seal, sealions, gentoo, magellanic and rockhopper penguins, imperial shags and a host of magnificent sea and land-birds.  
A wealth of other sites can be visited and enjoyed on the islands, portraying pioneers, fishermen and settlers as they battled with nature and the weather to tame this wild land.  Brunel's SS Great Britain served her last years here before restoration in the UK in 1970.  Most recently, the discovery of German WW1 warships sunk in the Battle of the Falklands in December 1914 is bringing new visitors to the islands.  And many British and Argentine veterans who saw action in the 1982 conflict return to view the sites of battle and final memorials to those who gave their lives.  The "circuit", as depicted in black on the map, takes visitors on a day-long tour around East Falklands to the key locations.  Amongst them the main British landing point at San Carlos/Ajax Bay, Goose Green, and sites closer to Stanley such as Mount Kent, Tumbledown, and Mount Longdon.  And to sombre memorials to both Argentine and British fallen at San Carlos, Darwin and Stanley.  To understand MORE, visit the excellent Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley! 
​Accommodation & Facilities on the islands are limited, especially in outlying smaller townships and hamlets.  But Stanley has good facilities for its size, with a floating storage dock, the airbridge, plus a regular 6-week supply ship schedule that brings in cars, and other heavy equipment, plus clothes and long-life food products.  The islanders also produce a wide range of their own meat, egg and vegetable products, such as their famed lamb, and excellent fishing catches.  One fuel station is open in Stanley and 3 smaller stations on West Falklands.   The main hotels (3-star?) in Stanley are the Malvina House Hotel and Waterfront Inn, both with good restaurants.  And a number of excellent B&B facilities also exist; We especially recommend the Pale Maiden, Bennet House and Lafone House.  Local currency is the Pound Sterling, but US$ and cards are accepted in most places in Stanley.  There are NO ATM facilities, and THE bank, THE museum, and the FEW shops have restricted opening hours, especially at the weekends.  Some shops offer "cash-back" on card purchases to obtain Sterling.  BRING SPARE STERLING!
Getting to the Falklands is becoming easier, with the twice-weekly UK MOD "airbridge" to Mount Pleasant International Airport (MPN) from the UK offering spare seating capacity aboard the RAF Voyager tanker/transporters.  These depart from RAF Brize Norton on  Sunday and Wednesday evenings, returning Tuesday and Friday, via a refuel stop on Ascension Island.  Commercial flights by LATAM from Santiago (SCL), Chile, also route weekly, on Saturdays, via Punta Arenas (PUQ) in southern Chile where customs procedures are done.  Once a month these also route via Rio Gallegos (RGL), mainly for Argentine visitors.  A new LATAM summer service is also offered weekly now, from Sao Paulo (GRU) in Brazil,  operating Wednesdays out and back (October - March), routing once a month via Cordova (COR) in Argentina.   NOTE: Delayed flights from GRU/ COR will usually result in a complete cancellation if NOT conducted on the cleared flight date!  Once on the islands, FIGAS flights can be taken to a host of remote spots.
But there CAN be glitches with travel plans!  Firstly, it IS a remote destination, and flight access is limited to weekly serials.  And whilst UK, Chile and Argentina, plus now Brazil, are offering better flight options, these are STRICTLY controlled!  This is compounded by the existence of "rotor winds" from mountains near MPN which can result in a 24-hour closure of the airfield.  This impacts on flights, the worst scenario being a delay to the inbound flight from GRU to MPN via COR.  On our visit, a "rotor alert" closed MPN, so inbound passengers from GRU/COR had to return to GRU, then route on to SCL, to catch the regular LATAM flight via PUQ the following Saturday!  Meanwhile, the outbound planeload expecting to depart MPN for COR/GRU had to delay in Stanley until Saturday, and route out via PUQ and SCL, then on to GRU for return flights home!  And, the larger visiting cruise vessels can DOUBLE the islands' population on occasions!  Finally, the frequent strong winds can complicate and delay air and sea operations. 

There are a host of other experiences to enjoy whilst visiting the Falklands!   West Falklands is rarely visited (less the outer islands listed), with outstanding fishing opportunities for local zebra- and sea-trout, and other fresh-water varieties.  Discussions are ongoing about the possibility of establishing a
5-star lodge here, offering excursions to the aforementioned islands to observe the fauna, plus fishing excursions and sailing.  Stanley already offers yacht charter, which can include a charter to South Georgia & the South Sandwich Islands.  Or you could elect to visit the Falklands and then join an exclusive cruise to Antarctica or around Cape Horn to Chile.   There is so much ​MORE to see and enjoy here!  Visit the Falklands soon!
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